Carol West revels in the opulence of a Hong Kong favourite that is synonymous with elegance.
Shopping and eating have long been my mantra for stopping off in Hong Kong. Sitting in the window of Cafe Causette on the mezzanine level of the Mandarin Oriental overlooking the Chanel boutique, I'm able to do both in comfort.
The fashionable London society photographer, the late Lord Lichfield, loved the Mandarin Oriental so much that he harnessed a galaxy of business tycoons and movie stars to advertise what became known as the "fan club". The campaign is being photographed by Sir Paul McCartney's daughter, Mary, and the hotel has recently created a suite as a tribute to Lichfield's legendary style. Designed by London interior designer Nicky Haslam, it's modelled on Lichfield's London studio and the black-edged, white-leather couch, red director chairs, original signage and black and white prints of fashion moments all ooze fabulousness.
The Lichfield is one of six luxury suites that attract an international gaggle of corporate clients, Hollywood royalty and British aristocracy. The suites were added during a hotel renovation that took nine months and $166 million to complete.
In a city as competitive as Hong Kong, closing the Mandarin Oriental for nine months in 2005 was a brave move, but one that's seemingly paying dividends.
Haslam isn't the only international design name harnessed for the project.
Sir Terence Conran redesigned the Mandarin Grill, where Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire conjures up modern French gastronomy in his first Hong Kong venture.
The oyster and sashimi bar adds a modern Asian touch while the dark restaurant space, illuminated by immense crystal sculptural lighting, creates drama. A relief of white ceiling fans is a witty play on the Mandarin Oriental's trademark while a leather banquette serpentines around four central "look-at-me" tables.
Gagnaire's architectural cuisine is presented against sweeping panoramas of Victoria Harbour from the 25th floor.
The quiet opulence of our Imperial suite has a luxury apartment vibe with three LCD screens and 1000-thread-count Egyptian cotton bed linen. Picture windows frame sheaths of glass and steel that pierce a clear sky, while across the harbour Kowloon merges with the morning haze.
A spray of white orchids curves sensuously against a walnut timber wall and the decor gleams with rich raw silks and polished leather.
Marble the colour of ancient forests lines the glass-walled bathroom and an enormous oval bath is set before wooden-shuttered windows.
This pampering pleasure palace is tempting but others await, particularly along Lan Kwai Fong where luxury-brand shopping is at competition level.
There were no glossy global fashion temples here when the Mandarin Oriental first opened in 1963. Today the Landmark, where Harvey Nichols meanders over four levels and every known designer has a signature store, is also a thoroughfare to busy Central station and Gloucester Tower.
This and other shopping centres are linked by myriad elevated walkways that remind me of being on Los Angeles's freeways. Once you're trapped, you could be there for days.
If you are footsore from shopping expeditions, holistic help is at hand on the 24th floor where the Mandarin Spa has an unparalleled aromatherapy environment.
Spread over 2100 square metres, it's designed to evoke memories of 1930s Shanghai and combines traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic treatments. I succumb to the gleam of embossed Chinese silks, the honeyed warmth of polished wooden floors and tumbling water.
Tensions are relieved by wading seven laps of the pebble-bottomed Kneipp hydrotherapy pool before, in one holistic hit, the spicy aroma of cinnamon and cloves in the Chinese herbal steam room invades the pores and clears the sinuses. Wilting faster than a week-old lettuce, I head for the ice fountain to refresh. Just a couple of rain-mist showers to go and I'm softened up for the main event, the Imperial Jade Ritual.
Embracing Chinese wellness techniques and oriental ingredients such as an energising ginseng face mask, ground-rice body scrubs, green tea and algae body masks and the balancing effects of jade, one of the world's ancient healing stones, this is a two-hour journey into the realms of spiritual luxury.
For men, the unique atmosphere of the Mandarin Oriental's Barber Shop is a classic grooming experience that's all but lost in most hotels. Traditional barber-shop chairs, 19th-century watercolours, shaving paraphernalia and the relaxation area styled like a gentleman's club comes complete with books on vintage cars, wine, watches and Bond babes.
In a town that knows the art of the deal, the 24-hour gym and business centre keeps entrepreneurs fit for business. In the M Bar, Adam Tihany - who created the Mandarin Bar in London - has crafted Hong Kong's premier post-work hot spot. In one of Hong Kong's emblematic hotels, it's high glam all the way.
The writer was a guest of the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.
TRIP NOTES
Getting there: Big airlines fly daily from Australian capital cities to HongKong.
Staying there: Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong. Phone +85225229111; see http://www.mandarinoriental.com. Rack rates from $HK3500 ($500); suites from $HK10,000; the Litchfield suite is $HK18,000.
More information: The Mandarin Spa has the indulgent two-hour "Imperial Jade Ritual" for $HK1800. For reservations and information, phone +852 2825 4888 or email mohkg-spa@mohg.com.









